martes, 20 de noviembre de 2012

Fashion in Latvia: Sabine Skarule



Despite being a small nation, Latvia is world famous for it’s stunning models and has enough creative talent to make this country stand out in the fashion world. Based in Riga, Latvia's capital, fashion designer Sabine Skarule is in her last year at Latvian Academy of Art. During her time there she’s presented a total of three collections, attempting to connect and then disconnect the clothing with the human being and the environment.

Sabine Skarule
When I talked to Sabine, she was taking some time off to inspire herself in the countryside. She looked very comfortable sitting in bed and wearing a dark long-sleeve slouchy sweater. Her short abundant brown hair covered her shoulders and the strap of a colourful blue top that she was wearing underneath. While holding a mug, she talked pragmatically of her home country. “Well yeah, Latvia is a really small country,” she laughed and her feline-shaped eyes became even more pronounced, “but at the same time it is easier to do things. If you want to do something, there’s a 100% chance that everybody is going to know about it.”
The Academy webpage describes in the programme that students have to develop a dress as an object; ‘Dress-Art’. Also fashion students present one collection per year, “we have to do everything ourselves,” said Sabine. Fortunately, they often have the chance to consult with the teachers and get their advice. So, with five students in her class it’s easy to have personal attention and discuss each other’s projects. “We are like family”, she said between a smile.
Zofa, a hand-made shoe designer, Mareunrol’s, Keta Gutmane, Indra Miklava and One Wolf are a few designers that Sabine suggested I should check out, “I really like Latvian designers, we are different and this is good.” In Riga they also have a shop called Paviljons that sells national fashion and work from young designers.

But do Latvian people actually buy their own national fashion? “More or less, if they have chance to buy it, they will”, she explained. So it seems people in Latvia are supportive of national design, “I start to think that most of my friends have Latvian designers clothes” she said.
However, with no big fashion companies in Latvia, young fashion designers find their break via competitions, Baltic financial support, working in TV ads, selling clothes around small shops, styling at magazines or making garments for their friends. While the fashion industry in her country is still exploring the possibilities, I asked her if she ever found inspiration in her culture. “Probably the colours, everything is more grey in Latvia, everything is in dark colours I don’t know why, maybe is something from our ethnic culture, I don’t know what is it.” Whatever it is, this country is certainly developing a strong fashion identity and Sabine seems to breath in it’s characteristics as a source of inspiration. Her latest collection at The Academy, called Only After You, was made out of black and white garments in which the models looked hidden in the black garment to add more importance to the clothes.
Sabine's collection 'Only After You'
With Sabine currently getting inspiration from the countryside for her last collection at the Academy, she is looking forward to taking part in competitions too and studying abroad. Despite Latvia’s small population, this country has numerous fashion lovers that are proud and believe in Latvian fashion, just like Sabine. In addition, Latvian fashion has been catching the eye of international magazines such as Vogue Italy that recently reported on Riga’s Fashion Week. “We have a long way to go, but we are a very creative country and we have a lot of talented designers, I really believe that.” concluded Sabine.












All pictures courtesy of Sabine Skarule

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Fashion in Latvia: Sabine Skarule is licensed under a Creative Commons Reconocimiento-NoComercial-SinObraDerivada 3.0 Unported License.


martes, 21 de agosto de 2012

Fashion in Mexico: Maura Ireri

Maura Ireri is a recent fashion graduate from ‘Centro de Diseño, Cine y Televisión’. For her final collection she used patterns based on golden proportion that concluded in very simple, meticulous and eye-catching white garments. With this collection, Maura proved that the young crowd might be the boost that fashion in Mexico needs.

Maura by Homero Ramírez
Picture courtesy of Maura Ireri
As a Mexican, we are often likely to have been asked at least once about the Mexican burritos and whether we wear sombreros charros or ride donkeys. So with this vision of Mexico, I bet it might not seem as a top destination for fashion lovers. However, just like in any other country, Mexico has fashion students like Maura Ireri, struggling to launch their own brands.

Dressed in dark colours and with her recognisable fringe covering her forehead, Maura opened the door and let me in her flat. With a sweet smile and dark eyes, she guided me through the place. It wasn’t the first time I was there, but I took a peek in her room again, just to confirm how polished and neat she is with her room as with her designs. White walls, orchids in a table corner, and a bit of an angelical light coming in from the windows. We sat down on the main table, where she had been painting her nails with a green-gold lacquer.  She got back to what she was doing and I asked, how did you get interested in fashion design?

She stopped painting her nails and very calmly and with a smooth accent between her words, said, “everything started with drawing”. After learning how to draw with her father who’s an architect, Maura drew outfits for her friends just for fun. Then, she decided to take things a bit more seriously and went on pattern-making and sewing courses when she was in high school. She also chose to move away from her hometown, Uruapan, Michoacán, to come and study to Mexico’s capital. “Because fashion was here”, justified Maura.


In Mexico City, there are three well–known fashion schools, one of which is Centro de Diseño, Cine y Televisión (Center of Design, Film and Television) where Maura studied. After the first year of studying photography, drawing and art history; while mixing with students from film, industrial and interior design, you focus on fashion and textiles. Classes vary from knitting, screen-printing to fashion history. 

She also had the chance to study one semester in Barcelona, so I asked what was the biggest difference that she noticed. “In BAU (School of Design, Barcelona), there was much more freedom for design, they weren’t very responsible, but they were more experimental.” In Mexico, as she observed, teachers tend to restrict your way into a certain type of design, “and without realizing it, you are built in a more commercial, conservative path.”

Perhaps within reason, because as Maura explained, “Mexico is very conservative, people in Mexico City dare more, especially those in the artistic scene, but the population in general prefer the jeans and the t-shirt.” The lack of fashion culture, and the high amount of foreign cheap shops like Zara, make it hard for someone to buy Mexican fashion. Then again, in such a populated country and with a constant economical crisis, people worry more about their basic needs. So, how can someone even bother to think about fashion?

Garments from Maura's final collection
Picture Courtesy of Maura Ireri
Compared to India or Japan, in Mexico the traditional costume is mainly used by indigenous people. Also, because of the high foreign influence, the traditional costume is slowly getting lost. However, there are a few traditional garments that remain part of the contemporary wardrobe. One is a shirt called ‘guayabera’ mostly used by men at special events, and the ‘rebozo’, very similar to the pashmina used by women. Nevertheless, Mexico remains popular for its beautiful textiles. “I like the diversity of materials here, that many designers do take advantage of”, said Maura.

Being in the fashion industry is not the best-paid job in Mexico, but how can it be when being a fashion designer is not a very respected
profession? “In Mexico most people don’t understand the difference between a seamstress and a designer”, said Maura. What’s the biggest limitation you’ve had? She was quiet for a moment, then said, “the lack of support to show yourself as a new designer.” The process that it takes for a young designer to appear in a runway is rather slow. As a lot of you might know, little shops in trendy zones that sell Mexican fashion garments are the way to start as a designer. Then big platforms like Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week or IDM (International Designers Mexico) are the next step if you’ve made it in a big way.

How would you deal with the lack of economical support towards designers? “I think until it happens to me, I’ll know,” she said giggling. So while she figures this out, and gains more experience in fashion design, Maura is showing with her collection that it’s possible to bring Mexican traditions into a contemporary design. “I took the ‘bejuco’ technique that chairs are sometimes made of, it is very Mexican, and I applied it on a dress,” she said referring to the black dress she wore the day she presented her final collection.

Despite the lack of costumers, fashion design is getting increasingly popular as a career in Mexico, as more designers emerge into the scene. Giving Mexican fashion students hope that it is a growing industry and it might be very different in the near future. “In a few years, I hope that it’s easier, so I can start my brand properly,” concluded Maura.

Check out Maura's work: www.mauraireri.com

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Fashion in Mexico: Maura Ireri is licensed under a Creative Commons Reconocimiento-NoComercial-SinObraDerivada 3.0 Unported License.
Creado a partir de la obra en http://fashion-aroundtheworld.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/fashion-in-mexico-maura-ireri.html.

martes, 29 de mayo de 2012

Fashion in Japan: Sweet Misaki


Misaki is a student at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo. She’s currently in her second year at college. After I saw her picture on a website dedicated to Japanese Fashion, I contacted her through Twitter and very kindly Misaki accepted to tell me all about her life in Japan.

Sweet Misaki
Picture taken from: tokyofashion.com
The fourteen-hour time zone difference meant a bit of trouble when exchanging messages to set up our call, but after a week we finally got to sit down and Skype. However, once we were ‘face to face’, communication became a bit of a problem. “Wait, wait,” she said slowly as she was looking to translate what I had just asked her. With a kind smile on her face, Misaki kept apologising, “Sorry, I’m not good at English.” It was early in the morning for her, but she was already dressed up. With a tartan blue blazer, she had her hair divided into two ponytails and a thick fringe covering all of her forehead. It looked like a small place, there was a rack full of clothes behind her, and on her left side there was a closet.

“I like Japanese kawaii. Do you know Japanese kawaii?” asked Misaki when I questioned her about why she chose fashion design as a career. Kawaii in Japanese means ‘cute’, and everything Misaki does, including an illustration she showed me, carries this style. She took a black leather jacket out of her closet that had taken her one month to make, and showed me the label: Sweet Misaki.

“I belong to the apparel design department,” she said. Bunka Fashion College in Japan has a very good worldwide reputation, so I was very surprised when Misaki told me that “students are friendly”. How would you describe studying at Bunka?  “Ohmmm it’s very tired and busy but it’s very cool and interesting.” We kept struggling with the language barrier, but with a smile on her face she kept on trying to understand in any way possible. “Oh! School time? From 9 am to 6 pm”, after that there’s “many sewing and many drawings”.

She is on a three-year course, in which time she has done around ten garments per year, including swimwear, a hat, a jacket, kimono and a skirt. Misaki described her course as “fundamentally free”. In the first year of Bunka the items to be made are decided by the teachers, along with the materials and silhouettes. When you get to the second year only the materials and garment are decided for the students, and finally in the third year only the item is picked.

“The teachers are strict at times, but teach us very nicely!” she said. Boys make up a third of the people in her class and she mentioned in Bunka there’s “many unique people”. Was it hard to enter Bunka? “Entrance may be many people, 200”, she said while signalling the number with her hands just so I was sure I was getting it right. “Resign from school, many people.” Both of her classrooms only have 120 students now.

 “Being a designer is not easy in my country,” Misaki kept repeating. Being “picky” as a designer might affect your chances of getting a job. “If you do not choose the company or type of occupation, then you can get a job. However, if it doesn’t apply to your taste or you do not come to an understanding with the company, then it may be difficult,” she explained. Wanting to work for a specific company with little experience might be hard. “But my goal is to make my brand”, said Misaki.

When I asked her whether being a fashion designer was a respected profession in Japan, she answered that fashion design is made to be thrown away. “Because Japanese fashion is fast fashion.” Misaki is referring to the fast retailing that has been growing in Japan; new stores such as Uniqlo, H&M, Forever 21 have been appearing on the streets and are highly frequented.

In Japan there is a particular fashion style in almost every city, and Tokyo on it’s own has so many different tribes that they have caught the world’s attention. These include ‘Shibuya’ girls, who are tanned women with short skirts, or the very popular Lolita fashion, which has been inspired by Rococo and Victorian styles. If you walk around the city you will find the most impressively dressed people, highly accessorized, and with many different hair colours.
Garment made by Misaki
Courtesy of Sweet Misaki


Women wearing kimonos can also be found around Tokyo, living proof that in Japan, long-standing traditions co-exist with contemporary fashion. Misaki owns around ten kimonos; “I wear kimono on celebration occasion.” Then she explained that the kimono varies in colour and fabric according to the season. I asked her if she feels there are limitations in terms of fashion. “No, no, no”, answered Misaki. “Japanese people are conservative but there are many individual people, including me. Not all the members are conservative.”  
Japan’s ever-changing fashion scene has become such a great source of inspiration that trend-hunters are often sent there to look out for the latest new look. “Lolita fashion, anime, the kimono, Kabuki” are just a few elements that make Japan very interesting in terms of culture and tradition for Misaki. “I don’t only focus on garments, but also in the subtleties of Japan. I like that attitude of doing things with dedication.”
By the end of our conversation she asked how to pronounce my name. Then she smiled at me kindly and said goodbye by leaning her head and putting her hands together. “I’m very happy to talk with you”, she said.



A couple of days later I asked Misaki to answer some questions in Japanese so she could explain in a broader way certain topics, and I’d like to thank Maya Renee Talley and Marimar Gomez Villalon for their help translating.

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Fashion in Japan: Sweet Misaki is licensed under a Creative Commons Reconocimiento-NoComercial-SinObraDerivada 3.0 Unported License.
Creado a partir de la obra en fashion-aroundtheworld.blogspot.mx.